Last weekend in the kitchen

Maggie and I will flying out of Melbourne on 25 April (Anzac Day in Australia) to spend just under a month in France and Central Europe, concluding with a 48-hour stopover in Dubai.  (I will be writing posts about this trip as the inspirations and opportunities arise.)

Last weekend, we decided to make Bolognese sauce, a dish that we could freeze in containers and use over the next few busy weeks.  We also worked to prepare some food to be cooked from Saturday to Tuesday.

From our butcher – Ashburton Meats – we brought home some beef mince, lamb chops, cornish sausages, pork cutlets and a 10cm thick piece of Scotch fillet.

Here is what happened next!

Bolognese sauce

Supermarket shelves groan under the weight of various jars of sauce that you can add to good quality mince to make a passable bol sauce. I prefer to make my own from scratch.  My recipe reflects many years of trial and error, as well as some initial ideas from Stephanie Alexander and the Australian Women’s Weekly.

In the past, I have used the more traditional mixture of pork and beef mince but, given how much else is going into the pot, I am happy to use 100% beef these days; and good quality pork mince is not always readily to hand. (As of March 2015, I have reverted to a 50:50 mix of pork and beef, giving a sweeter flavour, and deleted the zucchini, which diluted the flavours of the other ingredients.) Following the recipe, I give some suggestions for using the sauce.

Ingredients

2 tbsp olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
1 stick celery, finely sliced & chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped or crushed
1 carrot, grated
600g lean minced beef (or 400g beef mince and 200g pork mince)
2 tsp plain flour
½ cup dry white wine
generous pinch nutmeg
1 cup chicken stock
400g tinned chopped tomatoes (or equivalent in passata)
4 tbsp (80ml) tomato paste
2 large sprigs thyme
½ tsp sugar (to balance the tartness of the tomato paste)
½ tsp salt
2 cups of fresh shredded spinach (or frozen equivalent)
pepper

Method

  1. Sauté onions, celery and garlic in oil in a large pan.  After 5 minutes, add the carrot and sauté until the vegetables are soft and the colour is bleeding from the carrot.
  2. Add mince and sauté until browned.  Stir and press frequently to combine well with the vegetables and to prevent lumps of meat from forming.  (If your mince is very cold, add it to the pot, put the lid on and turn the heat off.  Resume cooking five minutes later – the mince will be easier to work.)
  3. Sprinkle in flour and nutmeg and stir well for a minute.  Add wine, mix well, then increase heat to evaporate most of the liquid.
  4. Add stock, tomato, tomato paste, sugar, salt and thyme and bring to boil.  After you add the chicken stock it might seem too wet but it will thicken as it cooks.
  5. Reduce heat and simmer gently for at least 1 hour, stirring from time to time. Add spinach after 30 minutes.
  6. Remove the thyme and adjust the seasoning, including some pepper.  (If you add the pepper at the start it will lose most of its bite during the hour of simmering; for most braised and slow-cooked sauces, I add the pepper late in the process.)

Bol sauce 1   Bol sauce 2

To serve with spaghetti or any other plain pasta, use at least 30g of the sauce for every 10g of uncooked pasta.

To make lasagne, we use about 700g of the sauce supplemented by 3/4 of a cup of passata, béchamel sauce made using 1½ cups of milk and 4 tbsp of pecorino, and sheets of cooked homemade lasagne.  We combine about 70% of the béchamel with the bol sauce and fill a 20cm x 20cm x 8cm baking dish with layers of sauce, lasagne, sauce, lasagne, sauce, lasagne, the remaining béchamel, lasagne, a generous topping of grated pizza cheese and a generous grinding of pepper. Put the lasagne into a cold oven, bring the heat to 160C and bake for about 35 minutes or until the topping is golden brown.

Once we had finished cooking the Bolognese sauce , we moved on to preparing one of our favourite marinades to go with the pork cutlets.

Marinade for pork chops or cutlets

This deceptively simple recipe produces a fragrant and delicious result.  We mainly use it when preparing pork chops or cutlets or as part of the lining for roast porchetta. It can also be used with chicken thighs or a robust fish such as Hapuka.

The quantities of each ingredient should be adjusted to suit your own palate and your experience of using the marinade.

Ingredients

4 cloves garlic
1&1/2 tsp fennel seeds
leaves from 4 young sprigs rosemary
leaves from 4 sprigs thyme
3 tsp black peppercorns (or use 2 tsp coarsely ground pepper)
1 tbsp salt
½ tsp caster sugar
2-3 tbsp olive oil
juice of 1 or 2 lemons (depends on size and juice content)

Method

  1. In a mortar, grind the garlic, fennel seeds, herbs, peppercorns, salt and sugar.
  2. Add the olive oil and lemon juice and combine well.  Adjust to taste (salt, oiliness, acidity)
  3. Rub the marinade into the skin and flesh of the meat to be cooked, cover and refrigerate for several hours or overnight.
  4. Remove meat from fridge one hour before cooking.

We applied this marinade to all four cutlets, put two in the freezer and two in the back of the fridge to use three days later; this was quite safe due to the freshness of the meat, the preserving effect of the marinade and the low temp at the back of the fridge.

When we cook pork cutlets in the Weber Q, we use the roasting process rather than the grill.  This results in slower cooking and more rendering of the fat.

By this time, it was late in the afternoon and we slowed the pace, easing into a simple barbecue of delicious lamb chump chops, satisfying cornish sausages, chargrilled par-boiled potato halves and a simple salad of thinly-sliced fennel, diced tomatoes, chopped mint and parsley and a dressing of some homemade vinaigrette and an extra squeeze of lemon juice.  (The potato halves were covered in cold, salted water, brought to the boil and cooked for 5 minutes then drained and dressed with olive oil and salt flakes.)

And the 10cm-thick piece of Scotch fillet – what became of that?  Well, that was barbecued on the Weber on Monday evening.  We cooked it for 8 minutes on each side (6+6+2+2), then rested it for 1o minutes, with some salt and white pepper sprinkled on each side.  The flavour was superb and there was plenty of pink flesh inside.

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A birthday dinner

On the 16th of March, I qualified for a Victorian Government Senior’s Card.  To celebrate this event, we invited two couples to have dinner at our home on the evening of 15 March.

We had decided well in advance that the highlight of the meal would be a beef rib roast, cooked in our Weber Q.  We gave our butcher – Ashburton Meats – plenty of notice and they hung a four-rib piece for six weeks, promising great texture as well as flavour.

For an entree, we served salmon carpaccio with a herb and tomato salsa.  We make this dish two or three times a year.  It tastes luxurious but it is an inexpensive special-occasion dish.

The recipe is provided at the end of this post. All palates vary, so we would encourage you to vary the quantities of herbs and tomato to suit yourself, as we have.

The centrepiece of the main course was the rib roast.  We eat our beef medium rare; our guests had all indicated a preference for medium-cooked meat, so we planned to take our share from the middle.

While the Weber was heating up, Maggie made a paste using about 1 tbsp hot English mustard, 1 tbsp olive oil and a generous grinding of black pepper.  She whipped the mixture in a bowl with a grapefruit spoon until it resembled mayonnaise and then rubbed it into the surface of the beef.  We cooked the beef for about 1 hour and 10 minutes and then rested it for at least half an hour, wrapped in a double layer of foil.  We have never got into the habit of using a meat thermometer; Maggie usually gets it right by testing with a metal skewer.

To accompany the beef we cooked potatoes, spinach and Dutch carrots, as well as some gravy and horseradish cream.

We used Royal Blue potatoes – they roast really well.  The potatoes were peeled, cut into chunks, covered in a saucepan with salted, cold water, brought to the boil, simmered for 4 minutes and drained (brief boiling helps to set the starch to crunch-readiness).  They were then tossed in olive oil, to which numerous slices of garlic had been added well before, and tipped into a foil tray that held them snugly. They were roasted in the Weber Q for about 45 minutes, turning the chunks over two or three times.

For the spinach, we removed the leaves from two generous bunches – bought at Toscano’s of course – then rinsed and drained them.  I melted 40g of unsalted butter (adjust downwards for smaller bunches) in a large saucepan over medium heat and then gradually added large handfuls of roughly torn leaves as Maggie tossed and wilted the spinach in the pan.  When all the leaves were wilted, we let them simmer for a couple of minutes then removed the pan from the heat.  After a few minutes, more water had evaporated, and the pan went back on the heat.  We added half a teaspoon each of salt and chicken stock powder, two teaspoons of Dijon mustard and between a third and half a cup of cooking cream.

Spinach cooked this way is one of our favourite side dishes.  We serve it with a variety of beef dishes, roast chicken and, for my son and daughter-in-law, with a brunch built on poached eggs, dry-fried rashers of bacon, sauteed mushrooms and roasted tomatoes.

The preparation of the carrots was novel for me – its origins were in Maggie’s former life. She trimmed and peeled the carrots then placed them as two layers in an un-lidded saucepan; then they were covered with a light chicken stock – made by poaching breasts for a sandwich filling – and sweetened with a teaspoon of sugar.  The carrots were simmered until tender, by which time the liquid had become deliciously syrupy.

For the gravy, we used a light Gravox gravy powder and water as the base, to which I added a beef stock cube to help the gravy work with the robust flavours of the other items.  The gravy was later enriched by adding all of the resting juices from the beef and some salt and black pepper.

Finally, the horseradish cream!  We had dug out some horseradish from our garden.  Maggie then washed and lightly peeled the roots, cut them into sections and put them through the finest setting on our electric mincer.  The product was then stored in a jar of white vinegar in our fridge.  To make the cream, she combined some drained horseradish, light sour cream, a generous pinch of both salt and sugar and a grinding of black pepper.  She then adjusted the balance based on feedback from my palate (although I am not a fan of horseradish, I do have a strong sense of taste).

The much-used word ‘delicious’ does not do justice to our palates’ experience of this roast beef dish.  It was simply the best that all six of us had enjoyed, largely due to the quality of the meat but augmented by the side dishes.  And we all had our meat cooked the way we like it.

Next, dessert!

We had considered various options for dessert – all of them proven crowd-pleasers – but eventually settled on a Sicilian apple torte.  One factor was the fact that we could make it a day or two in advance, reducing the workload on the day of the dinner and, also, allowing the flavours and textures to develop.

We hadn’t made the torte for a couple of years but our palates had very happy memories. As the recipe later in this post advises you, the preparation is quite involved; definitely a dish requiring a team effort.  Like most tortes, it it somewhat rich but so flavoursome that a small piece goes  a long way, even when accompanied with a dob of cream.

The spinach side dish was also prepared a day in advance; it re-heated well, in a saucepan over gentle heat.

Was there any wine on the table? You bet there was and of a standard the equal of the food.  We started with Mumm champagne, a bottle that we had been saving for just such an occasion.  A delicate French Rose was served with the salmon, followed by Pinot Noir with the roast beef. Pinot with beef?!  Yes, but not just any pinot; it was from the Central Otago region in New Zealand, which is emerging as the home of some of the world’s most remarkable wines made from Pinot Noir grapes.  The wine selection finished with a bottle of Sauternes, perfect alongside the torte.

Now, I just have to make sure that we are capable of producing a meal of similar quality when I reach 70 years of age!  Recipes follow.

Salmon carpaccio with herb and tomato salsa

For this delicate entrée, modified significantly from a recipe by Stephanie Alexander, you need sashimi-quality fillets of raw Atlantic salmon, bought on the day of use.  Ask your fishmonger to remove the skin and any bones then slice for carpaccio, ie very thinly.  Allow 2 to 3 slices per person.

In practice, most fishmongers are reluctant or unaccustomed to cutting the slices as thin as we prefer.  Maggie prefers to do it herself, using a knife we bought in Toledo when we were on a tour of Spain in 2011.  She selects tail pieces and cuts on an angle, which is easier to control; she cuts just through to the skin and then carefully removes each slice from the skin with the aid of the knife.

Ingredients

10 to 12 thin slices of raw salmon
½ tsp finely chopped dill
1 tsp finely chopped chives
1 tsp finely chopped parsley
½ tsp finely chopped tarragon leaves
½ tsp finely chopped basil leaves
½ cup finely diced ripe tomato
1 tbsp olive oil
pepper and salt
juice from half a fresh lime

Method

  1. Combine herbs, tomato, lime juice and oil.
  2. Season to taste
  3. Divide cold salmon slices between four plates and spoon the salsa over the salmon.
  4. Serve immediately.  Provide additional salt and pepper so each person can adjust the seasoning (salmon is not a salty fish).

Sicilian torta di mele

This stunning dessert cake requires about an hour of preparation but it’s worth the effort!  A small piece will be sufficient for most people.

Ingredients

150g melted butter
50g pecans toasted & coarsely ground
zest & juice of 1 lemon
1kg Granny Smith apples, peeled and cored, cut into quarters, finely sliced, then tossed in lemon zest & juice
4 eggs
2½ tsp vanilla essence
330g castor sugar – sifted
2½ tsp baking powder added to flour to sift
200g plain flour – sifted with baking powder
130g milk
150g raisins
100g pine nuts, toasted
3 tbsp sugar, 1 tsp cinnamon, ¼ tsp nutmeg

Method

  1. Line base of 28cm springform cake tin with baking paper (or use 2x20cm tins but cook for only 45 minutes).  Drizzle a teaspoon or two of the melted butter into tin and spread around, then add the ground pecans.
  2. Heat oven to 170oC.
  3. Whisk eggs, vanilla and sugar together until pale and creamy (about 5 minutes), then add the melted butter, sifted flour and milk.  Mix thoroughly.
  4. Pour one third of the batter into the prepared cake tin, then top with one third of apple (apples arranged radiating out), raisins and pine nuts.  Repeat twice with remaining ingredients, ie finish with layer of apples etc, then sprinkle the combined sugar and spices over the top.
  5. Bake for approx 1¼ hours; insert skewer into centre of cake – it will still be slightly damp in centre.
  6. Allow the cake to cool partly in tin, turn out onto a plate, remove base of tin and turn onto a cooling rack, ie base down.
  7. Serve with pouring cream.

 

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A delicious apple cake

In the course of a year, I cook 10 different cakes.  Of these, all but two include fresh fruit (or carrot) as an ingredient.  The carrot cake has always been popular but in recent years I have given priority to cakes made with apple.
I make three apple cakes and they differ greatly in style.  One is best eaten fresh, for morning or afternoon tea; the second keeps for days and is ideal to take to work to share with colleagues; the third is more of a dessert cake, richly flavoured and to be eaten in moderation.  The recipe for the second cake, kindly provided by Matthew Evans, uses olive oil as an ingredient instead of butter.

Apple cake with olive oil

This unusual recipe produces a very moist cake that stays fresh for several days.  It actually tastes better (more interesting) if left for one or two days.  The cake derives texture from the olive oil but not its flavour, which diminishes when cooked; you could substitute other oils with a high burning temperature, eg grapeseed oil.

 

Ingredients

 

5 medium-sized apples (Golden Delicious or Granny Smith), peeled and diced into 1cm cubes

100g dried apricots, chopped coarsely

200g raw or demerara sugar

3 eggs lightly beaten

A few drops of vanilla essence

½ cup oil (extra virgin olive oil is excellent)

200g walnut kernels, coarsely chopped

250g self-raising flour

Pinch of salt

¾ tsp ground cinnamon

1 tsp mixed spice

¼ tsp ground ginger

(vary spices to suit your own taste)

 

Method

 

1.    Grease two loaf tins or 20cm round cake tins and line base with baking paper.

2.    Place the apples, apricots and walnuts in a large bowl and combine well

3.    Heat oven to 170oC (it is important to cook the cake slowly so the pieces of apple can cook through).

4.    In a separate bowl, beat the eggs, sugar and vanilla essence until thick and smooth, then add the olive oil and beat for a minute to combine well.

5.    Add the egg mixture to the fruit and nuts and toss to combine.  Sift the flour, salt and spices into the bowl and work to make a smooth – but chunky – batter.

6.    Spoon mixture into the cake tins and bake for about 40 to 45 minutes.

7.    Allow to cool in tins for a few minutes then finish cooling on a rack.

 

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